Siem Reap has no traffic lights.
Answer
If your tuk-tuk overtakes another tuk-tuk which overtakes two side-by-side scooters and you encounter another tuk-tuk veering straight towards you, simply toot three times as a warning. Toot-toot-toot.
As a passenger you stop worrying after the first four minutes. You are too busy holding onto your hat.
It's a bit like India. If a bike wants to turn left on a four lane dual carriageway, then it veers left. If your tuk-tuk wants to do a U-turn, it does a U-turn.
White horned oxen and grey water buffalo munch along and mooch along in the fields beside the road. Occasionally a four legged friend, such as a dog or buffalo, decides to amble across.
As you drive through the cool dappled forest towards the temples you see people sleeping in hammocks slung between the trees. Local children are not watching TV; children are sitting in groups mesmerised, watching monkeys scampering along the grass.
Angela Lansbury, travel writer and photographer, author and speaker.
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