How to copy, measure and sew a caftan

Problems
When i first arrived in Singapore I could not find clothes to fit. My low neck 'holiday' tops were unsuitable for teahing mixed sex Englisl language pupils. I swelled up in the heat so nothing fitted. Tight clothes were constricting My shspe changed as i went from the hot street inddooors into air conditioning and out again. I ubderstood why Indian eomen wear sarees and others wear caftans and sarongs.

I soon bought some caftans and bought
lots of fabric in Spotlight store.

I had several too long caftans from India. When i wore them i was in danger of tripping over and had to walk clutching the m and hoisting them up when climing steps and getting on and off buses.

I cut the lowest edge off, the height of a hand width. I wanted to keep the hem a safe height.

I used pinking shears to stop the hem fraying. A hem can easily be sewn by hand. It just takes time. I matched the colour of the fabric but i doubt whether anubody would notice an inexact match .

The leftover fabric I hemmed and made a matching scarf. If you need a belt you could use the spare material for a belt. You could wear the belt loose. Alternatively make two loops at waist level from a cut off pieve of fabric from the scarf o use two pieces of ribbon.

Do you need ribbons urgently? You probably have a dress or skirt with hanging ribbons inside the shoulers or waist of an old outfit. These ribbons are sometimes too long just what yiu need. Cut off a tiny piece for the belt on your new garment and sew back the end of the shortened hanging loop.

I have several styles of caftan. One has a low neck which requires cutting a large v shae fron the centre front and edging it with matching fabric Cut oof the hem or from extra material.

However my more elegant evening caftan has a high neck. Imagine using the lower third of a saucer and then cutting a vertical line to help get the garment over your head.

I wrote my measurements in my diary.

Width of fabric 114 cms.
Length 113 cms.

Mid point to neck approx 56 cms.
But 2 x 56 = 112. Be careful if you copy an existing garment. The two sides might not be the same.

Neck width at top - cut shallow semi cicle for high fastening.

The raised semi circle reinforces the neck at theback. When looking at shop bought garments I always wondered why they did that.

To fasten the neck elegantly at the top use small raised domed button like a small pearl on a shank. On the other side, sew aloop of ribbon. It's a bit fiddly to get the ribbon the right length for the button.  If it is too big a loop just sew the two inside edges of the loop to make it slightly smaller.

My neck se.mi circle is 16cms wide with a neck depth of 9 cms.
As they say in tailoring as wee as boot making and carpentry : measure twice, cut once!

Finally, the two long vertical seams:

Sew 20 or 22 cma in from the edge. Mark with safety pins and/ or tailor's chalk.

Failing all else mark with soap - which washes out!

I sew up to 20 or 22 cms below shoulders to alloe me to put my arms in.

In theory you could sew a horizontal line or sloping line above the waist to create a tighter sleeve or kimono sleeve effect.

I needed the two vertical sewing lines wide enough to allow for my hips and sitting down on a chair  easily.

But the two caftans which I copied had very different widths. The narrower centre for the body with wider flapping panels at the two sides with more material to hang over the arms looked more tailored and elegant.

Tips
If you can find a printed line of part of a repeating pattern, you can use that as a guidelines for a hem or vertical line.

Angela Lansbury, author and speaker. Please share my posts.