East Coast Seafood Centre sign. Photo by Angela Lansbury. Copyright.
I went to Jumbo seafood restaurant in Singapore in the early days when it first opened and there was only one Jumbo. We were taken there by local Chinese Singaporeans. In those days the East coast - actually on the eastern half of the south coast - seemed far away to the Brits and American expats who had been enticed to Singapore on generous packages which kept them living in the expensive centre. The inaccessible East was inhabited by Australian expats who shunned the city centrer and liked wide open spaces, nearness to Changi airport to hop back home, only four hours to Perth or seven to Sydney, and a view of the sea.
Jumbo seemed to describe the size of the fish pulled out of the tanks beside the indoor tables, and the vastness of the premises, the size of an aircraft hangar, like being at a wedding.
On my most recent visit an English visitor was boarding a cruise in Singapore on her way to Sydney Australia, a retirement era treat. Again, Jumbo was our choice, because both the location and the food would be a novelty for her. She was staying two nights in a city centre hotel surrounded by skyscrapers and enclaved marinas. We arrrived early and stopped to look over the railings towards the ships in the sea surrounding us. 'Where is my cruise ship?' she wondered.
We looked down at the sand. Imported sand? My memory of one long ago visit was of sand flies as we supped drinks at a bar near the sands. We discussed whether the sands were imported. I had taken the precaution of showering in citrus scent shower gel and wearing long sleeves and a long skirt and covering exposed areas with insect repellent and checking somebody had packed Stingose sting relief. My fears were unfounded. This time we ate indoors and not a fly in sight. Maybe flies are seasonal. (But fogging takes place weekly to kill mosquitos in local condominiums.
Our seating was far inside. No matter. We had already enjoyed the view. Best of all was being beside the fish tanks. Like a trip to an aquarium at the zoo.
Big fish, grey fish, were swimming around urgently. Smaller pink ones had large mouths and eyes like cute toddlers, looking at us visitors questioningly. I felt it was quite worrying to think they were about to be killed. Should I smile, act friendly, deceiving them?
Anxious fish in seafood restaurant. Photo by Angela Lansbury. Copyright.
Was it kinder to smile, giving them false friendliness and false hope? Should I act like the firemen who reassured the desperate people on the top of the tower block inferno, Grenfell Tower, in London, that hope was on its way, knowing that it wasn't?
In the next tank were vicious looking claws of black and red lobsters. I was glad they were behind glass.
Other white creatures were still, motionless. Why? On closer inspection I could see why. They were tied.
Why tie them up?
One diner suggested, "If you don't, two of them, in an enclosed space will fight each other."
Later, I realised another reason why, when I saw a human hand coming down into the water to grab seafood intended for the next meal.
I watched, mesmerised, to see the hand descending two or three times. Then the scenario changed. Down came a green net on a dark stick. The hand was at a safe distance.
The net made two waves - at the eluding seafood. The net made it easier to grab. Finally, success for the net. Failure for the food-to-be.
When I first came to Singapore, live fish in tanks in restaurants were a novelty. In London fish was frequently frozen, chopped into neat squares and oblongs, or bought in big packs, without heads.
Fish tanks in restaurants are no longer a source of amazement for their very existence. But watching the living fish in constant movement is still eye-catching.
How do other diners feel about looking at living fish and shellfish about to become dead fish?
I asked another diner.
I got a shrug, "It's fine."
Jumbo Restaurant Branches
Jumbo has branches in several areas of Singapore as well as other countries. For convenience, you might choose a central location or one nearer you. Next time I would take a visitor to the branch at Jewel in Changi Airport to see the giant waterfall. Steps from the subway trains, the MRT. To come back from the East Coast branch of Jumbo we had to walk back to the pickup point and wait for our booked taxi.
However, I still reckon that the East Coast branch has a marginal score over city centre restaurants. You are aware that you are on the island of Singapore, standing looking out to sea and the ships before your meal. Whether you are a visitor or resident, being on the shore contributes to part of the Singapore experience.
Flag of Singapore.
You can find six branches of Jumbo in Singapore including one in Jewel shopping mall attached to terminal 1 at Changi Airport, Ion shopping mall, on the corner of Singapore's centre, Orchard Road.
Several are in China. Three are in Shanghai, one in the capital, Beijing, and one in Xi'an, famed for the teracotta warriors.
Morea around Asia: in Taipai, capital of Tiawan, in Ho Chin Minh, capital of Thailand, and Seoul, capital of S Korea.
If you can't reach any of these soon, you can buy sauces for a DIY dinner online from their eshop.
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Useful Websites
https://www.jumboseafood.com.sg/en/home
https://jumboeshop.com.sg/eshop/
About the author, Angela Lansbury.
Travel writer and photographer, author and speaker. Please bookmark your favourite posts and share links with your friends and family.
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