Driving to Dhermi Beach in south-west Albania - for the beach bars, gravel, stones and clear water

Drive Time From Tirana

We reckoned it took about four hours at least non-stop from Tirana, the capital, where we stayed a couple of nights, down to Dhermi. We took longer.

We wanted to visit Berat, the picturesque old historic mountainside town of a thousand 'eyes' or windows. We started to detour, but eventually turned back. The road conditions meant we did not have enough time to go there and back and see the place.

The roads have clearly marked lay-bys for passing. 

We passed an occasional memorial photo and flowers to somebody who must have died on the mountain road.

The Albanian Riviera

This area is known as the Albanian Riviera.  Signs on the winding mountain road tell you, so it is official. It reminded us of the Corniche on the Cote d'Azur in southern France. Corniche means ledge, as Wikipedia reminded us.

Dhermi beach is cut off from the road by the hotels. 

A cobbled pedestrian way leads along behind the hotels between them and the beach bars. The bars blare music from morning to nearly midnight. Macarena. It is a young people's place. (Nothing Albanian.)

Shingle Beach

Around the beach bars, the Dhermi beach is shingle and gravel. Down by the water's edge I sank into the stones almost up to my ankles. Now I know why the shops sell large numbers of beach shoes which encase the foot like thin sneakers or old fashioned tennis shoes but looking brightly coloured and maybe canvas or slightly stretchy. 

Clear Water

The water of the Ionian sea which starts here is clear. You can reputedly see down to your feet and the stones below, even where it is deeper. 

Fresh Fish To Eat

The sea contains fish. An Albanian lady in the rooftop swimming pool said you can see the fish. A waiter in Artur's restaurant which adjoins La Brisa hotel (and serves the hotel buffet breakfast) said the fish on display in the restaurant are caught daily by three fishermen.