Everybody likes to be surprised and delighted. I am going to tell you about three meals I had long ago: the French restaurant meal at Richelieu, the Souffle in London, the magic restaurant; then three meals I had recently which you could try - the chocolate bombe melting at Petrus, the misting ice cream at dinner, the hidden egg at the Harrow in Little Bedwyn.
The French Restaurant
The restaurant in Richelieu France was in a small town with a couple of bedrooms above the restaurant, the sort of place where there are no locks on the doors and one of you is saying that this place is a dump while the other bravely and optimistically insists it's lovely and cute.
Downstairs we weren't expecting much. Up comes the melon, a whole melon, with the top sliced off and replaced. We remove the edible lid to reveal the inside melon part cubed and red wine forming a contrasting lake. The main course, table d'hôte, is fish with almonds. We are expecting a small fish with a few almonds. To our astonishment, an entire tray of food arrives, the central platter surrounded by flowers, the fish for two on an oval platter, the fish entirely hidden inside a mound of almonds. We talked about that meal for years.
A French named restaurant, Le Souffle, in a Hilton hotel in London, supplied a memorable anniversary meal. For a starter we had artichoke soufflé. The soufflé was in the middle of the green artichoke. The artichoke was served half encased in a red napkin folded origami style to mimic the shape of the artichoke leaves, a series of stepped, red triangles.
Le Souffle's decor was outclassed by the entrance to the dearly missed Magic restaurant. First, the entrance was hidden. You descend a staircase and cannot see a person, nor a door, just a set of panels and bookshelves. After scanning for a handle, pulling and pushing, attempting to slide the wall, stamping on the mat in the hope of finding a pedal or button, the door swings open. Did you trip the catch, are they watching from inside or what?
Inside, of course, there was more. The waiter brings a hanky and does a trick, then unfolds the cloth to reveal a menu printed on it. I can't even remember the food. (The Magic Hotel in San Francisco was another unforgettable hotel we were lucky enough to try before the owners said goodbye to the business. When you opened the bedroom's wardrobe door, you saw a mural of a cow. A recorded voice told you where to find the menu, grab it and hurry downstairs to dinner. In the dining room the waiter greeted three of us, each by our first name, although we had not met him previously.)
What can you enjoy now in London?
Petrus
Unless price is no object look out for lunchtime specials at this a la restaurant. The chocolate bombe is a combination of hot and cold, ice cream inside, encased in chocolate casing which melts or explodes to reveal the contents.
Dinner
Dinner restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel offers assorted surprised. The orange, which is a kind of mincemeat ball covered in something resembling ketchup, think tomato, Scotch egg for millionaires.
The dessert is equally original. An ice cream cart which is wheeled to your table if you choose their special dessert. The ice cream is made fresh to order. You get a grand display of ice cream mixing, with a white mist like dry ice. I wasn't so thrilled with the results, but my two companions thought the taste was every bit as good as the performance.
The Harrow
The hidden egg was the surprise at a recent meal. I hope this stays a feature of their menu. As well as looking amusing, like a boiled egg, the taste of the sweet white swirl of cream on top, and the orange fruit centre, was delicious. Of the three desserts I have described, I think nutritionally a combination of sugar and fruit wins. Not too much sugar, small portions, just right. But perhaps that's because it's the one had most recently so I remember it more clearly and fondly.
The Harrow at Little Bedwyn
Cauliflower Snow
What if you are not nearby and / or can't afford the time and money to visit these sumptuous places? What could you do at home? How about Cauliflower Snow, my favourite surprise dish when I had just started entertaining. You cook cauliflower with a layer of whipped egg white on tip, hiding the egg yolks under the 'snow'. One egg yolk per person. Grated cheese on top is melted under a grill which cooked the whites and keeps the yolks cooked enough to be runny, not set.
If you cut the egg white to mark the portions, you can be sure each of your two, four or six diners receives a serving containing a surprise egg yolk. It's a relatively inexpensive dish and suits those who don't eat meat. The ingredients won't suit strict vegans (who avoid eggs, milk and cheese) but will be fine for many vegetarians.
If that's too much like hard work, try Petrus, Dinner or The Harrow.
Angela Lansbury B A Hons is a travel writer and photographer.
The French Restaurant
The restaurant in Richelieu France was in a small town with a couple of bedrooms above the restaurant, the sort of place where there are no locks on the doors and one of you is saying that this place is a dump while the other bravely and optimistically insists it's lovely and cute.
Downstairs we weren't expecting much. Up comes the melon, a whole melon, with the top sliced off and replaced. We remove the edible lid to reveal the inside melon part cubed and red wine forming a contrasting lake. The main course, table d'hôte, is fish with almonds. We are expecting a small fish with a few almonds. To our astonishment, an entire tray of food arrives, the central platter surrounded by flowers, the fish for two on an oval platter, the fish entirely hidden inside a mound of almonds. We talked about that meal for years.
A French named restaurant, Le Souffle, in a Hilton hotel in London, supplied a memorable anniversary meal. For a starter we had artichoke soufflé. The soufflé was in the middle of the green artichoke. The artichoke was served half encased in a red napkin folded origami style to mimic the shape of the artichoke leaves, a series of stepped, red triangles.
Le Souffle's decor was outclassed by the entrance to the dearly missed Magic restaurant. First, the entrance was hidden. You descend a staircase and cannot see a person, nor a door, just a set of panels and bookshelves. After scanning for a handle, pulling and pushing, attempting to slide the wall, stamping on the mat in the hope of finding a pedal or button, the door swings open. Did you trip the catch, are they watching from inside or what?
Inside, of course, there was more. The waiter brings a hanky and does a trick, then unfolds the cloth to reveal a menu printed on it. I can't even remember the food. (The Magic Hotel in San Francisco was another unforgettable hotel we were lucky enough to try before the owners said goodbye to the business. When you opened the bedroom's wardrobe door, you saw a mural of a cow. A recorded voice told you where to find the menu, grab it and hurry downstairs to dinner. In the dining room the waiter greeted three of us, each by our first name, although we had not met him previously.)
What can you enjoy now in London?
Petrus
Unless price is no object look out for lunchtime specials at this a la restaurant. The chocolate bombe is a combination of hot and cold, ice cream inside, encased in chocolate casing which melts or explodes to reveal the contents.
Dinner
Dinner restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel offers assorted surprised. The orange, which is a kind of mincemeat ball covered in something resembling ketchup, think tomato, Scotch egg for millionaires.
The dessert is equally original. An ice cream cart which is wheeled to your table if you choose their special dessert. The ice cream is made fresh to order. You get a grand display of ice cream mixing, with a white mist like dry ice. I wasn't so thrilled with the results, but my two companions thought the taste was every bit as good as the performance.
The Harrow
The hidden egg was the surprise at a recent meal. I hope this stays a feature of their menu. As well as looking amusing, like a boiled egg, the taste of the sweet white swirl of cream on top, and the orange fruit centre, was delicious. Of the three desserts I have described, I think nutritionally a combination of sugar and fruit wins. Not too much sugar, small portions, just right. But perhaps that's because it's the one had most recently so I remember it more clearly and fondly.
Cauliflower Snow
What if you are not nearby and / or can't afford the time and money to visit these sumptuous places? What could you do at home? How about Cauliflower Snow, my favourite surprise dish when I had just started entertaining. You cook cauliflower with a layer of whipped egg white on tip, hiding the egg yolks under the 'snow'. One egg yolk per person. Grated cheese on top is melted under a grill which cooked the whites and keeps the yolks cooked enough to be runny, not set.
If you cut the egg white to mark the portions, you can be sure each of your two, four or six diners receives a serving containing a surprise egg yolk. It's a relatively inexpensive dish and suits those who don't eat meat. The ingredients won't suit strict vegans (who avoid eggs, milk and cheese) but will be fine for many vegetarians.
If that's too much like hard work, try Petrus, Dinner or The Harrow.
Angela Lansbury B A Hons is a travel writer and photographer.
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