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Showing posts with label hollandaise. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hollandaise. Show all posts

Monday, November 16, 2015

Two of the Five French Sauces: Bearnaise, Hollandaise

So you sit in a French restaurant at home or abroad trying to work out what's in the sauces. In Indian restaurants you have to watch for hot chilli. Menus get more and more complicated, including the English and French ones. Now legislation is obliging restaurants to list ingredients to protect those with allergies, or dieting, or driving. Does the food contain known allergens such as nuts? Some people are allergic to eggs. Is it worth paying extra for fish something special sauce? Sauce with champagne and ginger - ooh, that's different, sounds luxurious and yummy.

At school I was taught there are two basic sauces, white and brown. White sauces to match white fish and white meat such as chicken. Brown sauce or gravy from the juice or dripping of dark meats in casseroles. Sauce is thickened with flour.

For dessert, sauces are sweetened with sugar or honey and flavoured with fruit juice. Egg yolk adds the colour yellow to custard. Simple, really. Once you know.

But the French have five sauces. Just the basic ones!

What you are likely to see on a French restaurant menu or in a cookery book or magazine:
The famous five classic for basic sauces.
Here are two of them.

Béarnaise
Béarnaise sauce comes from the city of Béarn. Notice the up accent on the e, which tell syou that your voice goes up, so it is pronounced ay. Double vowel sound. Bay - ah.

The child sauce, derived from Hollandaise. Yellow, creamy sauce. Opaque (you can't see through it - opposite of transparent). Made with egg yolks. Also herbs.

That's all you need to read a menu and work out if it sounds good. You need to ask if you want to be sure if you are allergic to eggs or other ingredients. If you want the classic recipe to cook, check the basic recipe for detailed ingredients on Wikipedia. Recipes all over the net will give you substitutes if you cannot obtain ingredients or have dietary restrictions.

Let's look a bit more closely at Béarnaise. Not just any old butter. Clarified butter. Not a whole egg. Egg yolk. Emulsified. Help! What's that? An emulsion, like an emulsion paint, shaking oil and vinegar makes an emulsion or shiny mixture of oil suspended in the water. Gleaming, shiny from the oil. Ah.

Hollandaise
Sauce with white wine and lemon juice.

Then there's mayonnaise. Just egg yolk and oil, olive oil.  Sorted. That's three of the five.

Angela Lansbury.
Travel writer and photographer. Author and speaker.
For more details about my name and yours see the next post. For more on sauces see the post after that.

Saturday, October 4, 2014

Incanto Restaurant, Harrow on the Hill, New Chef - and my menu translations

Incanto has recruited a new chef Michelin star restaurant chef, Peter Howarth, from Pennyhill Park.

We read the news on a Harrow newsletter. A google search threw up a picture of the chef and other staff plus restaurant photos and pictures of food on the Incanto Facebook page. I managed to read it and see lots of photos.  Now the page keeps jumping about and sending me error messages.

The Incanto website has lunchtime and tasting menus with some terms I don't know so I'm doing some research.
http://www.incanto.co.uk/index.php/restaurant/menu/

A handy explanation of organic and biodynamic wine is on their website.
http://www.incanto.co.uk/index.php/restaurant/wine/organic

Amuse - to amuse - a little free taste
Anitpasti - starters  (Italian)
carpaccio - sliced meat like salami, beef not pork?
ciabatta - bread - crusty with big air holes, goes dry fast, oval loaf
confit - pressed meat or vegetables, with lumps and strings compressed, like a thick pate or pot of corned beef, weighted and cooled
croutons bread cubes fried or baked until crisp, often in soup, sometimes in salad
Duxelles - mushrooms and onion fried (sauteed) in butter and reduced (made thicker from heat)
primo piatti -  first course
guanciale  - pillow
hollandaise - Dutch (sauce made with egg yolk, like mayonnaise, but mayonnaise mixes the yolk with oil, whilst hollandaise used butter which is richer and more calorific)
Madeira jelly - made with Madeira wine from Portuguese island in the Atlantic, in four grades of sweet to dry but mostly in England Malmsey which is the sweetest
Pain au chocolat - French bun with chocolate (pain means bread)
penne - short pasta
(pesto dressing for pasta made of olive oil and pine nuts, green colour from basil)
puree - made liquid or into a thick smooth soup or paste in a liquidiser
quail - small bird meat eaten on bone
rosata - pinkish (wine which is pale pink)
rose - pink
rum bab sponge pudding shaped like a donut ring or bombe (ball) soaked in rum
scallop - seafood
(shallot - oval shape onion with pointed ends)

Wines:
Grand Cru - vintage - highest quality in most parts of France such Burgundy and Alsace (but in Bordeaux premier cru) and in right bank of Bordeau St Emilion main village has grand cry class A and other variations
NV non vintage (not old - not a good enough year to be stored in oak barrels for long periods)
blanc de blancs - white wine from white grapes
brut - dry (wine)
extra brut - extra dry (wine)
sec - dry (wine)
Klein Kloof - (Dutch for small gap)
noir - black (French)
Pedro Ximenez
Pinot Noir - a black skinned grape - noir is black
rose - pink
Tokay /Tokaji - Hungarian


I'll bring you more news in another blog post in 24 hours time.

Author
Angela Lansbury, travel writer and photographer, author and speaker. Please share links to your favourite posts.