I discovered Umbrian chocolate, the stories of Francis of Assisi, and more about Etruscans and earthquakes and Perugia and when I was taken on a trip to Umbria by the tourist board. I travelled with four other journalists, all with different hopes and fears.
The Health of Journalists and Tourists
We should have been half a dozen but one had a minor injury before the trip and the tourist board sensibly decided it was better for her to take her on another trip later when she was fully recovered. I can see that bouncing in a bus or slipping on wet cobbles is not a good idea and could cause those caring for her and everybody less worry and risk of diversion and expense.
Cycling, Sports or Culture?
I'd been to a press do at a hotel in London where the whole evening we watched a backdrop of a film of cyclists. I had feared I would be set on a sporting holiday. But I was on an action-packed cultural trip. I nearly said non-stop, but we had frequent stops - not to do nothing but see local scenic spots, panoramas from hilltop terraces!
I had heard that Umbria was 'the heart of Italy'. I imagined a series of mountains like a backbone down the centre. When I got to Perugia I learned that the city is built on more than seven hills, like Rome and many cities (Jerusalem?). They say that Perugia is like the fingers of your hand. One Italian man told us, 'You go home setting off downhill (from your restaurant or friends' house or meeting room or classroom), then uphill again to your own home!'
At first I was disappointed not to see Assisi which is both the birthplace and burial place of St Francis of Assisi. 'Away in a manger' as the song says, would be very seasonal and suitable story with Christmas coming up. But I was delighted when it turned out that we saw a much less well known hovel where Sir Francis slept.
We also saw a church with a painting of him. Probably dozens of churches in the Umbria area feature local hero St Francis. Umbria and Italy have an entire St Francis of Assisi trail which can be as short as an afternoon or spread over several days or weeks, taken by devout Catholics, historians, and those who want a trip with a focus or theme. A brochure which you see in many places gives the St Francis of Assisi route.
Hill Climbing Made Easy
We all looked fit and healthy when we arrived. It transpired that one person walked with difficulty and was due for a (hip?) operation - but managed all the uphill climbs admirably.
Once we went up a funicular. Not scary at all. Trees both sides. I was pleased within they cleared so you could see the view. I loved it.
If you are over seventy or overweight you might think all that uphill walking on hilltop villages and cities would be a strain. I managed all of it. I did not tell them that I have had multiple injuries in a car accident. I did not mention that I have weak ankles. I wear flat shoes. I am not a risk taker. Given a choice I don't ride bicycles, chairlifts, horses, nor even donkeys. Faced with steep stairs I recall falling down the stairs at home as a toddler. (I don't actually recall it. But my mother told me about it daily.) I ride lifts (elevators). The streets are so full of places to stop and photograph that you amble along.
The only time I chickened out in Umbria was at a darkened doorway opening onto a descent down a slope into an underground Roman water cistern, with no proper steps, just strips of wood or stone to help the feet of donkeys. I wasn't claustrophobia. It was the thought that I'd slide down, hit a wall, no rope or banister to grab. Plus I needed a toilet and did not want to slip and wet myself.
Gluten Free Food Demands Met
Another journalist needed gluten free food which was provided at every venue. Most restaurants provided a cold starter, then pasta, and a main course cooked to order. They gave her special non wheat 'breads' and other dishes cooked on demand, with no prior notice, always mentioned after we arrived. No problem.
Shellfish And Allergies
One person was allergic to shellfish (crustaceans and molluscs) - that's me. As Umbria is landlocked the amount of shellfish was far less than you would get in neighbouring Tuscany and other coastal areas.
Pork and Meats
Pork is the most popular meat. You get salamis on a cheeseboard alongside hard cheese. Sheep's cheese is popular. Looking out of the restaurant windows at the slopes outside, I could appreciate that sheep and nibble-footed goats would be more likely to be at home here than cows.
On the meat side of the board by the salamis are rolled up cured ham, looking like Parma ham. I found it was stringy and got in my teeth. But I must admit the meats were very tasty. Main dishes also featured a lot of pork.
Meat-free, Vegan, Fruit and Vegetables
Another person had been in remission from cancer and chemo and was still into fresh fruit and veg and no processed meats. He survived by eating lots of fruit at breakfast. At lunch and dinner starters were salami and cheese. You don't usually get spaghetti Bolognese with salad. That's not a local Italian dish. But lots of other pastas are. Once we had a pesto sauce. Anti pasta mostly came with only a piece of watercress. Tomatoes were often on the side.
What other vegetable options? Lentil soup appeared on one or two menus. If you were having a choice from the menu, instead of being treated to a set meal as we were, you might go for a vegetarian main course for one of you if you are a couple travelling together.
More information from
www.umbriatourism.it
Please read my other posts on Umbria and travel and restaurants, food and wine and museums. I have other blogs.
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Angela Lansbury, travel writer and photographer, author, speaker.
