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Sunday, August 18, 2019

What Could You Get From A Six Course Tasting Menu At The Harrow At Little Bedwyn Restaurant?

A six course tasting menu at The Harrow at Little Bedwyn - what will you get? Celebrating a family engagement, we drove two hours from London to the Harrow Restaurant in Little Bedwyn, Wiltshire, leaving London before five pm on a Saturday afternoon, for their six course tasting dinner. We had allowed time for delays on the motorways and before 7 pm, early, in the light.

In case you don't know, I am the jolly blonde at the right of the picture. You might also notice the pleasing pink Champagne, the subtle strawberry colour soup in small shot glasses, the candle glowing on the table, the clean white fabric tablecloths, the artwork on the peachy walls.


The Harrow (restaurant) at Little Bedwyn, Wiltshire. Pink Champagne and small glasses of cold soup whose ingredients are strawberry and watermelon. Photo by Angela Lansbury. Copyright.

Every year for a special occasion, when the restaurant has a special fixed price menu, we drive out to see them. It sounds a long way but we always find it is worth the journey.
Three miles from Hungerford with its thatched houses, you turn into a narrow lane between fields, under the trees, twisting left and right, narrower and narrower, until you reach an area of remote small houses.


The church of Little Bedwyn in rural Wiltshire, England. Photo from Wikipedia.

Service With Smiles
We were greeted as we walked in the front door by two or three of the girls wearing black tee-shirts with the name of the restaurant, neatly matching. Easy to work out who is a guest, who is serving, who is the owner, Sue.

Relaxing Atmosphere
The atmosphere is understated and quiet. You are in the middle of the countryside. Not a car for miles.

Previously, at lunch time, we have sat in a half empty restaurant. If you can get an off season lunchtime meal at a reduced price that is better for your budget. Bright light in the front room at lunch time is good if you want to see the food and photograph every morsel.

However, I prefer dinner on a Saturday night when the place is full. That is better for feeling warm and cosy.

I sat facing Riedel decanters. Curved and elegant. After typing Riedel I went back to the glass manufacturer's sales website check the spelling. How do I remember whether it is ei or ie? Same as the English spelling saying, i before e, except after c.

Whilst we waited for the food to arrive, we commented that the sound level was just right. Enough carpeting to stop that deafening echo you get from the tiles in Italian restaurants.

On the corridor walls are numerous photos of their awards. Also unusual paintings for sale, animals in bright colours.

Toilets
The toilets are soothing. Yes, just right.

I photographed the long mirror, but found I could not escape my own reflection. I dodged about to get the phone out of the picture. So handy to have a long mirror, to check you look okay, head to toe, hemline straight.

Angela's selfie with the long mirror.

In the long mirror you can see the reflection of the round mirror. (By my design - I chose a photo which shows the other mirror.)

Only when I got home did I discover that the round mirror's glass pieces had turned my reflection into a Picasso style picture with the nose and eyes at different angles.



Angela in the round mirror.


Twinned toilets. Photo by Angela Lansbury.

The toilets are twinned with toilets overseas. Always something amusing.

The menu and drinks and first course of food come up fast.

Drinks
You can order a flight of matching glasses of wine at two prices.
Or pink sparkling Champagne for a toast.
If you don't drink alcohol, or are driving, there are organic juices, mocktails, sake and cider.
Freshly baked bread. Photo by Angela Lansbury

Bread
Our first course was crusty bread with a soft center and two small circles of hummus and a truffle butter. Bread has to be just right. It was just right.

Soup
Next was a tiny shot glass of cold soup, a mixture of flavours. Called gazpacho, which is a Spanish or Portuguese cold vegetable soup. I mixed it up in my mind with Vichyssoise, which is French potato and onion soup, and French bouillabaisse, which is fish soup, but gazpacho, in the original version and in the Harrow version had no fish in it. Perfect.

English feta (cheese) with salted cherries. Photo by Angela Lansbury.
Fish
Next was fish, Cornish turbot. Slightly chewy fish on first mouthful but by mouthful three I was into the additions of girolles (mushrooms) and Perigord truffles.

Main Course Meat And Alternatives
For main course I had lamb. How do they manage to make it pink but perfectly soft and edible, yet with a crunchy edge? We debated this.


Main course. Lamb. Photo by Angela Lansbury.

I loved the egg with soldiers. I have eaten this twice before. This time they added some salt to both the biscuit and the egg. What is the middle? Mango puree?

Surprise 'egg' with (biscuit) soldier

Although the first time you see it, you are more surprised, I don't mind a spoiler. Neither for food nor films. I watch movies about the Titanic, and World War II. I know the ending, but I still enjoy the action. Can't get enough of it. When it comes to food, knowing what it looks like does not destroy the joy of eating the food. You have to taste it. You have to try it. The recipe has changed from the time we first tried it. Now the biscuit and the egg have a touch of saltiness offsetting and enhancing the sweetness.

Too much sugar? The egg is not the end. After that we had teeny tastes of strawberries.
I was allowed to taste the wine from the Optional Premium wines, Casa Silva Late Harvest Semillon Gewurttraminer 2017, from Colchagua Valley Chile. Chile is the country which runs, snakes, down the west coast of South America separated from the rest by a string of mountains. Chile, not too chilly, not too hot, warm enough for vines.

Diet
Our group included one person who was eating no shellfish. That's me. Another was eating no shellfish and no meat. The restaurant discussed the food choices on the phone a few days in advance and were able to change the meat to aubergine and the fish to a different fish.

Coffee And Chocolates
The choices are regular or decaff coffee. Two people ordered coffee and it appeared with two chocolate balls on sticks. The four of us looked at the two chocolates. That happens so often in restaurants. Also in hotels, somebody left without a chocolate. When you are paying a lot of money to celebrate togther you don't want to be end your day arguing over who has the chocolate. A moment later, two more chocolates appeared.

At the end we had no leftovers to take home. The portion sizes of the meal were judged just right. We felt full enough but not over-full.

All we have to take home is memories. Memories fixed by photographs.

The young couple said, "It was a great meal, much better than a Michelin star restaurant we visited in London."

Tables
On previous occasions we have sat in the front room. On this visit we had a round table for four in the back room. I much prefer the back room. Fewer distractions of staff and diners coming and going. Fewer diners who are near enough to distract you whilst not actually being near enought to get into conversation.

Getting There
We set the satnav. Nothing much to see en route. You listen to your radio or talk.

We knew we were nearby when we arrived at Hungerford and drove past the historic Bear Inn, where we once stayed the night. Hungerford is in Berkshire, whilst Little Bedwyn is just across the county border in Wiltshire, near Wales from where some of the food is sourced. English lamb or Welsh lamb?

According to the men in our foursome, and the restaurant's own website, and reviews on Tripadvisor, photos of Welsh Rugby teams are in the restaurant's gents toilet. The restaurant is run by Sue and Roger. Roger is the cook and when he is away visiting his suppliers or judging contests his team cook and serve up his menus. He writes for Decanter magazine. The wine menu is quite a good novelty read, too. The wines are listd by style and grape rather than country. That suits me, as I am looking for white or rose wines and sparkling wines.

If you arrive in the restaurant area before lunch time you can visit the farm shop nearby, but at gone six pm on a summer Saturday evening the shop complex was already closed. So we turned around and drove back to the restaurant. Just as well, we had spent enough for one day on food and wine.

What it cost:
60 pounds sterling per person for the six course dinner. Optional matched tasting wines, four for 25 pounds per person. (Or 40 pounds per person for premium wines, but we sent one of them back and tried the basic wine which was better.) I always think if there is a choice of two food or wine set menus, you should choose one of each. Then you reduce the cost, double the variety, and halve the risk of getting something you do not like.

Useful Websites
The Harrow At Little Bedwyn
Little Bedwyn
https://www.theharrowatlittlebedwyn.com/about/
https://www.riedel.com/en-ie/features-promotions/collections/hand-made/hand-made-decanters

About the Author
Angela Lansbury, travel writer and photographer, author and speaker.

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