The Peranakan Museum
The word Peranakan means native born in Malay, the children of the rich Chinese merchants who arrived in Malaysia (in those days called Malaya) and married local wives.
The house you visit is the ancestral home of a family, dating back to the 1860s, and the descendants are still around. The museum is private (so no reductions on the ticket price for pensioners).
The museum is open every day of the year except New Year's Day. (I presume that is the worldwide New Year, January 1st, and not Chinese New Year but I suggest you check.)
We paid for a guided tour and were given round stickers. Our guide, Shirley, who wore the pretty local dress of colourful, in her case blue, light thin unlined jacket with embroidered edge, fastened by three brooches. The thin, sometimes see-through jacket is called a kebaya.
When she sternly told those without stickers to leave the group we thought she was fierce but on the contrary she turned out to be very funny. Every fact she told us ended with a droll comment on how different things were nowadays.
Seclusion
We began in the grand entrance hall. In the early days, Peranakan ladies stayed behind the heavy door with glass you could not see through and peeped through gaps in the slatted woodwork at visitors.
I always wondered how the Chinese men managed to keep their Muslim Malay wives following Chinese customs. The women grew up in the house sheltered from meeting others and did what they were told. The style of food and clothing and worship was directed by the husbands. No need to leave. The family altar to venerate ancestors of the Chinese husband was within the home.
Special Staircase
On the ground floor I was impressed by the carving and gilding of the underwisde of the staircase, not a local feature but believed to be unique to this house. Upstairs the staircase has more surprises. A heavy carved double gate acted like a modern child gate to protect against falling and keep people out and in. Not just that. A sliding door with sides was pulled back to cover the entire staircase, so that from the ground floor the steps led nowhere.
A second security device was the movable floor tile where the upper front room was overhanging the doorway downstairs. You could look down on welcome, and unwelcome, visitors arriving. We could see unsuspecting tourists below.
Upstairs we saw wartime money. Banana money.
I was intrigued by the bride's wedding attire. She would have worn many hairpins inset with jewels.
Back downstairs to the kitchen. Huge pestle and mortar on the floor. Everything, even the toilet doors, is distinctive, very local, different to anywhere back home in the UK or USA, the carving, the curves, the colour scheme.
At the back was a small shop, where one of our group bought a fan.
Peranakan Kebayas
Afterwards I looked at kebayas in a nearby shop. The embroidered, lacey edge is so pretty. The tops come in lots of colours, pale pastels which are summery, and more sophisticated darker colours. Unfortunately, what looked elegant on a slim woman was not tailored enough to look right on my ample figure. You also need a matching skirt. We tried a black and red jacket which we hoped would look good over a black dress. Black also shows creases less. If you are keen, as I was, a hotel shop such as the one in Casa del Rio might have a different style or quality.
Websites
singaporeair.com
https://www.malaysia.travel/en/experiences/top-25-experiences
https://www.malaysia.travel/en/sg
About the Author
Angela Lansbury is a travel writer and photographer, author and speaker, and teacher of English and other languages. Please share links to your favourite posts.
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