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Monday, September 11, 2017

Fabulous French Chateaux And Gardens of the Loire Valley


The Loire Valley is known as the garden of France.

Problem
Where to start? Which to do first?
Château de Villandry, photo by Jean-Christophe BENOIST in Wiki.

Answer
Start with Villandry. Pick a nearby hotel. Or pick a hotel, then plot your chateau tour.

Villandry
Villandry is huge. And busy. You could do the gardens only, the house only, or both, depending on weather. I went there on a press trip. The car park was full of groups and the queue (Americans say line-up) for the house was so long that on arrival some of our group drove off to another chateau first and came back when Villandry was less busy. 

One member of the group was a gardening specialist and did not bother to see the house. I can understand that if you want to focus hard on one subject on a trip you might not want distractions. However, not knowing what I would see inside, I remember being so excited by one antique object that I was really sorry my friend had missed it.

Chateau de Villandry, in the region of Tours
I, on the other hand, found the gardens interesting but rather tiring. However, knowing what I know now, about the different patterns, and the problems you have to solve in topiary, I would now be far more interested in the garden than I was previously.

Research
I think it's worthwhile to research the place in advance. When all the details are new and hit you at once it can be overwhelming. When you research and remember the names of the different kings and queen and eras, the plants, the styles of furniture, it makes sense.
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Château de Villandry, garden, by Daderot in Wikipedia.

Chenonceau, the Medicis and Machiavelli
After Villandry, see Chenonceau. 
King Henry II of France had been married to his Italian wife, Catherine de Medici, when he and his wife were teenagers, both only fourteen-years-old. Henry was then the younger brother of the future king. Catherine was the daughter of the ruthless, infamous Medici family of Florence. Machiavelli dedicated to her father the famous book The Prince, about how to cheat and murder your way to the top! 

Henry's older brother died and Henry became king. Soon after Henry married he embarked on a lifelong affair with an older woman, Diane of Poitiers, to whom he gave the Chateau of Chenonceau. When Henry died, Catherine, who had always wanted Chenonceau, promptly took it from Diane.

Chateaux Tour
Other chateaux include Amboise and Chambord. Usse inspired Perrault to write Sleeping Beauty. Richelieu was the home of Richelieu so involved in French history. Valencay was owned by Talleyrand (1803-1838) whose French words of wisdom included: 'words are given to us to hide our thoughts'. 

You can spend several days visiting chateaux, as I did on my gardens trip. See one in the morning. Have a leisurely lunch. See another in the afternoon. Have a leisurely dinner. Stay in a chateau hotel.

On another ferry-drive holiday with my husband, we tried staying at a grand hotel one night, then on alternating nights we stayed at moderately priced Relais. We spent the money we saved on a one star Michelin restaurant.

VIDEO
Brilliant video of Chenceaux with commentary by a jolly, enthusiastic man, potted history of the royals and picture of the grand interior:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TB8zcl9NxKw

Websites
CHATEAUX TO VISIT
ttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Château_de_Villandry
http://www.french-gardens.com/gardens/chenonceau
relais
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Châteaux_de_la_Loire
MICHELIN RESTAURANTS
https://www.viamichelin.co.uk/web/Restaurants/Restaurants-France
HOTELS
http://www.lastminute.com/hotels/country/hotels-in-France
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/SmartDeals-g187123-Chenonceaux_Loire_Valley_Centre_Val_de_Loire-Hotel-Deals.html
NATIONAL TOURIST BOARDS
http://uk.france.fr
http://us.france.fr

Author, Angela Lansbury, travel writer and photographer, author and speaker. Please share links to your favourite posts.


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