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Tuesday, April 23, 2019

What to See in Surabaya, the 'City of Heroes' in Indonesia, after trekking up Argopuro

Surabaya is the second city of Indonesia, after the capital Jakarta. Surabaya calls itself the city of heroes. 

Let's start at the beginning. The name Indonesia derives from the Greek name of the Indos (Ἰνδός) and the word nesos (νῆσος), meaning "Indian islands". 

Lots of islands. Mostly Moslem. The wine making is in Bali which is not Moslem.

My family frequently climb the volcanoes in Indonesia.
"What?" I gasp, "Volcanoes!'

My family reply, "Indonesia is all volcanoes. All the mountains are volcanoes. You are on one or under one."

Really? They didn't teach me that in school.

So, my intrepid trekkers, went on yet another long weekend to trek up the Argopuro volcano in Indonesia. The island has several volcanoes. Every now and then a volcano sens up a plume of smoke and a trek is cancelled or postponed. So, off they go to another nearby mountain. the mountains are not only hot inside, but have trees and lakes and trails trodden by feet and worn down by mopeds and
signs at the top giving you the elevation.

Plus local guides. Local taxes to enter national parks containing valcanoes, fees which are higher for tourists than for low-paid locals.

Does that money go on signs and paths or the pockets of people, as legitimate salaries, wasted on admin, or bribes, or to help local infrastructure? We may speculate, but we have no time to investigate that. We are too busy organizing flights and maps and tents.

The first night hotel was:
Utama Raya Beach hotel
on Jalan R aya.

At the back were inflatable boats, brightly coloured. Across the car park is a Starbucks.

Our group had supper together at the back of the hotel, on heavy iron seats, which look red in the pictures. Perfect for dinner outdoors overlooking dark sand beach with pebbles at the back and boats.

Next day the trek starts. It is a one way trek with the minibus meeting you at the other end, so if you want to turn back, do so early. It is steep and tiring.

One of the older hikers turned around on the first day. He went back to Surabaya and waited for the return flight.

The rest of the group soldiered on and slept overnight in tents. Everybody gets up at 5 am.

Indonesia is mainly Moslem so no much alcohol. Surabaya has a large Chinese population who are ethnic Chinese but speak bahasa (language) Indonesian.


Entrance to Chinatown, Surabaya, Indonesia. Photo from Wikivoyage.

The city, a Singaporean friend tells me, after he stayed there at a friend's house last year, seems much safer than the larger capital city of Jakarta.

At the top of Argopuro you can pick up a sign with the name of the mountain, on what looks like a car number plate and hold it up for a photo.

Coming back, half way down, you see a very peaceful lake. Local have built a jetty where you can sit and take a peaceful picture, not a sound for miles except the occasional bird.

Our group of expat climbers met the locals who had just rebuilt the jetty. A local girl said, "Come to Surabaya and visit the chocolate shop where I work!"

If you are stuck in Surabaya, or have time on your last morning before the lunch time flight back to Singapore, what else is there to do?

Surabaya Sights
1 See two bridges: the long bridge across to the island, Suramadu bridge lit at night.


2 The Red bridge.
3 The museums about independence.
4 A high statue of an Admiral, representing the fight for independence, from the Dutch.



5 A giant green Russian submarine, now a museum.
Cafe alongside.


Photo by Midori in article on Surabaya in Wikivoyage.

6 Some strikingly pretty mosques.
7 A chocolate shop whose website shows fabulous chocolates and cakes.
8Traditional Hotel.


Surabaya is the second most populous city on Java. However, my relative was tired from the trek and decided not to go into town. His excuse was that the traffic was so bad that he did not want to risk missing his flight.

What to buy? A charger at a service station, good value, takes two phones or devices.

Costs
Flight from Singapore.
Jetstar flight.
Pay extra for checked in luggage.
Two Leki brand sticks. (We previously had cheaper ones which fell apart.)
On the return flight the airport staff tried to take the walking sticks away. An elderly traveller argued that he needed them.

Payment to local guide who carries your overnight bag. Tip to guide on last day for general help.
You need a day bag contained lots of water. On one day, day one, one of the hikers drank four litres of water.
Small fee to trek organizer, who does not go on treks.

Finally, once home we looked up the song about Surabaya Johnny for The Threepenny Opera.

Author
What to buy? A charger at a service station, good value, takes two phones or devices.

Indonesia is mainly Moslem so not much alcohol. For sharing out food at camping breakfast time, one traveller brought dates. Another had the smallest coffee pod coffee maker and coffee pods. Another had cheese.

One traveller found that after several years of service his tent was starting to leak in the rain. At the end of the trek, he gave it to one of the porters. 

I am a great fan of recycling. Nonetheless, when I heard this story, back in Singapore, I protested, "Maybe the porter wouldn't want a leaking tent! Would he patch it up?"
The reply I got was, "I promise you, dear, the porter would be very glad to have it."

Travel Tip
When you get off your group coach always keep your phone with you to contact the others. My relative got off the minibus for a coffee in Starbucks. When he emerged the minibus had vanished and so had his group. He did not have a phone to call them. He did not know the name of the hotel. Eventually he crossed the car park and went into the lobby of a nearby small hotel. He told the man on the desk he had lost his group, and their minibus had vanished. 

The man on the desk reassured him:
"You are in the right place. They have just checked in. The minibus has gone back. All but one. You must be ..."

The phone he left on the bus was with the group organizer. The moral is, even if you are just rushing to the toilet and the coffee shop, always have your phone and your group leader's number and your destination hotel phone number and address with you.

Useful Websites
Jetstar
Singapore Airlines
traveloka.com (comparison and booking) pairs up the different legs which saves searching
booking.com gives each leg of your journey separately.

INDONESIAN AND MALAY LANGUAGES
If you are planning a trip, you might like to brush up your Indonesian vocabulary and grammar (pretty much the same as Malay, which you hear in announcements and read on the four language posters on every journey on the MRT in Singapore


Angela Lansbury, travel writer and photographer, author and speaker.


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